Spargelzeit (asparagus season) is a special spring celebration in Germany, marking the arrival of this “white gold” vegetable.

White asparagus is grown beneath mounds of soil, allowing the spears to thicken while preventing them from producing chlorophyll before harvest. The higher price of white asparagus compared to green asparagus is due to the labour-intensive harvesting process. Each spear must be harvested by hand, with workers carefully digging into the mound and using a special knife to cut it below the soil surface.

This recipe showcases the traditional way white asparagus is served in Germany: with creamy homemade Hollandaise sauce, new baby potatoes, and slices of Katenschinken (smoked ham), a northern German specialty, particularly in the Holstein region. The name derives from the Katen (small peasant houses), where the meat was traditionally hung and smoked in the chimneys above open hearths. For a vegetarian version, simply omit the smoked ham.

We buy our white asparagus at the farmers’ market. Different grades are available (the lower grades are perfectly suitable for soup), and some vendors offer automatic peeling machines, so you can take it home ready to cook.

White asparagus season in Germany traditionally begins in mid-April and ends on June 24, known as St. John’s Day (Johannistag). White asparagus soup is another wonderful way to enjoy this prized vegetable. German green asparagus is equally delicious when grilled on the barbecue.

Ingredients:

• 500 g white asparagus
• 2 egg yolks
• 100 g butter
• Juice of ½ lemon
• New potatoes
• 200–300 g Katenschinken (smoked ham)
• Fresh chives

Instructions:

1. Peel the asparagus from just below the tip to the base of each stalk using a vegetable peeler. This helps prevent the asparagus from being stringy. Depending on the skin’s thickness, you may need to peel a little deeper. You’ll know it’s sufficiently peeled when no fibrous strings remain.
2. Snap off the woody ends of each asparagus stalk.
3. Place the asparagus in a large pan, cover with boiling water, and cook over medium heat for 15–20 minutes. Cook the potatoes at the same time. Test the asparagus for doneness with a skewer, as you would a potato.
4. To prepare the Hollandaise, heat a non-stick pan over very low heat. Add the egg yolks and a few chunks of butter.
5. Whisk the egg yolks and butter together until the butter melts. Watch carefully and remove the pan from the heat if the egg yolks begin to cook.
6. Add a few more chunks of butter and continue whisking. Repeat this process, slowly incorporating the butter, similar to making aioli.
7. When the sauce has thickened (you may not use all the butter, or you may need a little more), stir in the lemon juice and continue whisking until the sauce thickens again. Taste and add more lemon juice if desired.
8. Gently warm the Katenschinken while the asparagus and potatoes finish cooking.
9. Drain the asparagus and potatoes, then arrange them on serving plates along with the Katenschinken (or in bowls for eating with chopsticks).
10. Ladle the Hollandaise sauce over the asparagus and garnish with fresh chives before serving.

Tip:

• Save the asparagus peelings to make a stock (we learned this tip from our friend Tricia). You can freeze them and collect more until you have enough to make a stock, or do what we did and create a vegetable stock using other vegetables you have on hand. We added celery stalks, onions, parsley, garlic, peppercorns, a bay leaf, and Parmesan cheese rinds.

Spargel (White Asparagus) with Hollandaise, Potatoes, and Katenschinken

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One of Germany's most cherished seasonal dishes, this recipe combines locally grown white asparagus with homemade Hollandaise, new potatoes, and smoked Katenschinken. It's a delicious way to experience Spargelzeit and support local farmers during asparagus season.

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Prep Time 20 minutes mins

Cook Time 25 minutes mins

Total Time 45 minutes mins

Course: Main Course

Cuisine: German

Ingredients Method

Ingredients

  

• 500 g white asparagus
• 2 egg yolks
• 100 g butter
• Juice of ½ lemon
• New potatoes
• 200 –300 g Katenschinken smoked ham
• Fresh chives

Method

 

1. Peel the asparagus from just below the tip to the base of each stalk using a vegetable peeler. This helps prevent the asparagus from being stringy. Depending on the skin’s thickness, you may need to peel a little deeper. You’ll know it’s sufficiently peeled when no fibrous strings remain.
2. Snap off the woody ends of each asparagus stalk.
3. Place the asparagus in a large pan, cover with boiling water, and cook over medium heat for 15–20 minutes. Cook the potatoes at the same time. Test the asparagus for doneness with a skewer, as you would a potato.
4. To prepare the Hollandaise, heat a non-stick pan over very low heat. Add the egg yolks and a few chunks of butter.
5. Whisk the egg yolks and butter together until the butter melts. Watch carefully and remove the pan from the heat if the egg yolks begin to cook.
6. Add a few more chunks of butter and continue whisking. Repeat this process, slowly incorporating the butter, similar to making aioli.
7. When the sauce has thickened (you may not use all the butter, or you may need a little more), stir in the lemon juice and continue whisking until the sauce thickens again. Taste and add more lemon juice if desired.
8. Gently warm the Katenschinken while the asparagus and potatoes finish cooking.
9. Drain the asparagus and potatoes, then arrange them on serving plates along with the Katenschinken (or in bowls for eating with chopsticks).
10. Ladle the Hollandaise sauce over the asparagus and garnish with fresh chives before serving.
Save the asparagus peelings to make a stock (we learned this tip from our friend Tricia). You can freeze them and collect more until you have enough to make a stock, or do what we did and create a vegetable stock using other vegetables you have on hand. We added celery stalks, onions, parsley, garlic, peppercorns, a bay leaf, and Parmesan cheese rinds.

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